Diana frightens the penguins away

Oh look darling an Austin 7 owner!

The trip was unlike previous wild life trips in that we were less restricted as to where we could walk and the penguins seemed less disturbed by our presence. During the return trip the dolphins came very close to the boat and followed us back to the landing place.

No I have never heard of Austin 7’s either!

Patagonian oyster catchers

Wind formed bush roots

Can you spot the penguin?

Puerto San Julian, a replica of Magellan’s ship

Crossing the Rio Santa Cruz

We had stopped on the verge to confer and when trying to pull away and into the car park, the chummy clutch protested in smoky disgust. Over a late lunch the probable causes were discussed and a prognosis reached, which was to deal with the issue there and then in comparative civilisation, rather than risk a failure in the wilds of the surrounding countryside where we would have no facilities or possible help if all else failed.

We removed to a more sheltered spot behind the premises where we might minimise the spectator element and emptied the chummy and “Rusty” into the restaurant store. Helpfully the rain which had until then been intermittent, became persistent. However with two umbrellas and overalls, within a very short time the complete front end of the Chummy was removed and the engine and gearbox removed as one unit.

A sheltered spot

Chris unbolts the gearbox

Removing the engine and gearbox in one unit

A replacement bearing from stores was pressed into service and the gearbox and engine re-united before being stuffed back into the car. It was by now very cold and the wind and rain had chilled everyone’s fingers to insensitivity.

To the victors the rewards, freshly baked scones

Damp but replete Johny and Chris contemplate the
miles remaining until G&T's

We were by now three hours later than planned and although warmer and well fed, the continuing murk and rain did not help dry wet overalls and coats.

Police Checkpoint

The final miles into Rio Grande low cliffs border the river

After half an hour we gratefully got under way and sped the last 5Kms into town to find the hotel. Although our original reserved parking was now unavailable, we were found a secure spot and tucked the cars in for the night. We ordered food-in and relieved and tired we got to bed at a reasonable time. Fortunately small hotels seem completely un-phased by guests ordering food to be brought in and helpfully provide plates, cutlery and glasses.

Once through, we drove the 1/2Km to the Chilean border crossing and imported the cars and ourselves, got examined for customs and entered the country.

Chile!

The Chilean entry post

Once through, we drove the 1/2Km to the Chilean border crossing and imported the cars and ourselves, got examined for customs and entered the country.

Straits of Magellan

Tucked away in a corner of the ferry

The 20 minute crossing, in bright sunshine was made across the famous Straits of Magellan and the unspoilt view was, with the exception of the two ferry ramps, probably as it would have appeared to Magellan and his crew. A huge school of  Commerson’s dolphins played around the ferry and we stood, watching, delighted  by their playful activity.

Commerson’s Dolphins, Straits of Magellan

Landing on the opposite bank we set wheel on Isla Grande Tierra Del Fuego, it was an exciting moment, one we had all been looking forward to and talked of during the past week.

Chile is distinct in its appearance, the roads are in good repair, the road signs numerous and the small collections of houses and towns, colourful and neat.

Arriving at Cerro Sombrero, we checked in and relieved to find a local petrol station, without which we might have struggled for fuel. A few maintenance tasks were undertaken, a small water leak on the chummy, the speedo cable on Rusty and general oiling and checking.

We are now at 53deg S and contemplating the last  few days of our journey south to Ushuaia.

The secure garage parking in Cerro Sombrero

The secure garage parking in Cerro Sombrero

We waited until nearly 07.00 when we extracted the cars and went to the adjacent canteen where to our amazement, 50 or 60 workers were wolfing down breakfast.

The start of the ripio from Cerro Sombrero

We soon got on the road and immediately went from tarmac to ripio, the beginning of our 128Km journey to the border of Chile with Argentina, which had been described as anything between rough going to impassable for small vehicles. In the event we had a reasonable journey, passing an overturned pick-up on the way, a victim of the road.

The long and winding road

We came across several of these bus stop shelters,
miles from any discernable habitation

Some were inhabited!
Perhaps it reminded him of sentry duty in the RAF?

We paused at a cross roads to confirm our location

Arriving at Cerro Sombrero, we checked in and relieved to find a local petrol station, without which we might have struggled for fuel. A few maintenance tasks were undertaken, a small water leak on the chummy, the speedo cable on Rusty and general oiling and checking.

We are now at 53deg S and contemplating the last  few days of our journey south to Ushuaia.

26/1/9 Rio Grande

A Gaucho with spare horses

Trees of some size for the first time in days,
the branches covered in trailing lichen

Small lakes, reed fringed and surrounded by trees

Distant views of the Cordillera De Los Andes

Pictures from the chummy

Lunchtime stop at Tolhuin, before the climb

We made a brief stop for lunch and pressed on now anxious to get to journeys end. Almost immediately we passed Lago Fagnano and began to climb.

Lago Fagnano and the Cordillera’s

Lago Fagnano

Cordillera peaks at 1375 metres

The climb begins and rain sets in

Tantalising views emerged from the trees as we pressed on, sometimes hidden by stands of dead and dying trees, the cause of which we have not yet discovered.

Dying trees, cause unknown

Dying trees

As we climbed a gentle mizzle began and made the road slippery. However we had by now a police escort, he had overtaken us and with blue lights on the cab flashing stayed a few hundred metres ahead as we breasted the last rise and stopped briefly at a Mirador to thank him for his consideration

The climb complete we passed the 3000Km point from Buenos Aires and made a safe descent. Pausing briefly in Rusty to change drivers we dashed the last 5 Kms into Ushuaia and the dramatic picture was unveiled before us.

We passed Km 3000 from Buenos Aires on Route 3

Crusty makes the final approach to Ushuaia

Isla Host south of Ushuaia

Hotel Canal Beagle

High  Street Ushuaia and an RT?
Ex-London Transport

Snow caps and glaciers from the waters edge in Ushuaia

The city is a bustling centre for all sorts of expeditions setting out. Relying on tourist trade, it has however a rather frontier town feel to it, which despite the tourist trinkets and many shops catering to the cruise liners that call here, has an appeal of its own.

We made various purchases, to deal with maintenance and had a leisurely few hours exploring. We shall be based here for a further three days and will taste some of the possibilities available.