Entry #5:

15th January 2009

We left Bahia Blanca early on the 13th, after a comfortable night, Vince feeling better for rest. A fairly easy days drive ensued with cooler temperatures under thin cloud. The road was short of great interest, but we made speedy progress and with few stopping places to delay us we arrived in Viedma and its twin town across the Rio Negro, Carmen de Patagones. We crossed the river on an imposing bascule bridge, now closed, but had to avoid the remaining railway lines, lurking in deep groves in the tarmac.

The hotel, a fairly modern affair, faced the river and had spacious rooms. Rusty had suffered a puncture on this leg and after changing tubes and refitting the wheel we cleaned-up and crossed the river by ferry to explore Carmen on foot. It soon began to rain but the kindly town museum curator opened the doors early and we enjoyed a guided tour of an interesting local museum, which has much material on gauchos, early welsh settlers and interesting artefacts from the 19th and 20th centuries. It was at this point that one of those things that make travelling such a richly rewarding/confusing process occurred. On the inward flight to Buenos Aires we had been prepared for the time adjustment of three hours, which is given in all the books. The TV screen on the aircraft confirmed a three hour change, but a few minutes before touchdown the cabin steward announced a two hour difference. For the first day in Argentina the group was divided in its opinion as to the actual time. However by checking on the internet, the change was confirmed at two hours, Argentina having introduced a one hour daylight saving plan in 2007, mystery solved!

Meanwhile, back in Viedma, we sashayed out to dinner at 21.30, before which time it is usually difficult to find anything open. To our dismay the restaurants appeared to be closed, however we enquired where we might get something to eat and were told to return at 21.30 when everything would be open?  The sound of bottom jaws hitting the pavement could be clearly heard? We looked again at our watches and pointed out that it was already 21.30, “Ahh, that’s North of the river”. We had, it appeared, crossed a time zone and are now 3 hours behind GMT. This news was broken gently to some who had had their doubts all along.

Having reset our various time pieces and made the necessary mental adjustment we did in fact manage a coordinated start at 8.00 and refuelled on leaving the town. Now began a journey westward along the Golfo San Matias on Route 3 a distance of 170kms of almost straight road, rising gently and bordered by low scrub thorn and sandy soil. We met two men travelling in the opposite direction on low powered scooters, with guitars on their backs, facing a long journey and two young men walking towards our starting point but some 60kms from San Antonio Oeste with an enormous distance to go? This distraction at least gave us some relief from the tedium, how had they got there, did they anticipate walking all the way? It is sighting such as this that provides the seed for speculation.

A brief stop at San Antonio for fuel, the food available being unappetising, we pressed on. Turning South we began the 125kms to Sierra Grande, the fierce sun bringing temperatures to 32 deg C and the road for once in poor condition made driving tiring. The wind which had been gentle now picked up and was blowing from 45deg to our direction of travel. Those in the chummy struggled to maintain speed and direction and the sight of giant trucks overtaking was alarming. We made an even briefer stop at Sierra Grande, this being less appealing than the previous stop and the worsening conditions and desire to reach our destination, prompted a quick pit stop.

The last leg proved to be the most difficult driving conditions yet encountered. At times the chummy struggled to mainbtain even 20 miles an hour in the fierce dry wind and the direction of the wind changed to 90 deg to the road and began to blow clouds of dust onto the road. Just before we turned off route 3 for the destination at times the car in front disappeared from view even though with 40 feet and even in the closed cars we could taste the dust which permeated every nook and cranny.

Finally the turning for Puerto Madryn came into view and we began a long descent to the coast realising as we went that we had been quite high and subject to the full force of the wind sweeping across from the Andes. With relief we stopped at 17.30 having completed 286 mls bringing our total to 979 mls so far. The scene from “Ice Cold in Alex” was swiftly re-enacted in the welcoming bar at the hotel before we washed off the dust of the journey.

Today is a maintenance day for crews and cars alike, a few loose screws have to be tightened and I expect the cars will need some attention also.

Tomorrow we will visit the Peninsula Valdes in the anticipation of seeing the famed sea wild life on this  peninsula. We are too late for whales which do not appear after December but penguins, seals, sealions, walrus and many other species can be see as well as orcas.

The day saved will enable us to visit Trelew and the welsh villages around Gaiman, tea and traditional cakes are to be found and many familiar looking buildings.