The size of this country becomes more apparent the further we travel. We reached Bahia Blanca last night at about 6pm after a very long days travelling

We set out from our stop at Las Floras at about 8.30am refreshed and waved on our way by the staff of the hotel.  Route 3 stretched almost straight for 111kms to Azul, the railway running a few kms to one side. We made a stop for fuel and coffee on route and made Azul in the late morning. The road was level and well paved and we were passed by trucks and cars most of whom waved and piped horns as they passed. At one point in the journey a Ford Taunus was stopped by the road and the driver taking pictures as we passed, later he overtook and took more.  We pulled in just before a roundabout and there he was again. It transpired that he was a journalist on a BA newspaper and was delighted to see the cars on the road.  Later the story as it appeared in print was sent to us with photos, in essence ”the heroic journey, without rollcages, crash helmets, advance party, helicopters or GPS” was given of our journey comparing it favourably to the OTT Paris Dacar Rally which is taking place in Argentina and Chile at the moment.

We are gradually becoming accustomed to the road rule of giving way to traffic on the right on roundabouts, which if forgotten leads to moments of rising panic. Road courtesy is generally good, traffic from behind however, if wanting to overtake get within a few feet of the back bumper and then overtake without regard to road signs, sometimes in long trains of vehicles, who if behind a truck will be unsighted of the road ahead, relying on the first vehicle indicating to pull-in. No signal is given when overtaking, headlights are used by the trucks most of the time.

We pressed on towards Benito Juarez a further 96 kms and stopped at a café where the ham rolls had been recommended. This was ham in the style of Sorreno and delicious. The heat and mileage was beginning to tell and a little reluctantly we set off on route 86, the final leg towards the ranch of Axel where we were anticipating our first asado.

The instructions given told us to look for a disused railway crossing the road and to turn to the left immediately onto an unmade road. We followed this in clouds of thick white dust for 12 miles until turning right for another two miles we reached the farm gate. Pulling onto the farm track we were greeted with the quiet of a deserted countryside. Diana and River went off to reconnoitre the ground, returning about 40 minutes later. The ranch was a further 4 miles along a track, in places just dust and in others grassy ruts. Again the scale of the place was evident as we approached a stand of trees, which seemed at first close but was in fact 20 minutes drive away. Our days run had been 174 mls.

We were directed to a sheltered spot amongst the trees and pitched camp, serviced the cars and prepared for the asado. Alfresco showers were taken amongst the trees from a bag of water hung in a tree, all equipment provided by the camping maestro River who has a passion for camping stoves and demonstrated at least four in boiling water for showers. One shoots jets of petrol up to 15 feet in the air at the least provocation and another later produced a pool of burning denatured alcohol about 6 feet across on the veranda of the farm supervisor, it certainly impressed him.

The sheep supplied by Axel was jointed and set beside the fire to cook. Meanwhile we entertained the farm supervisor’s family with nursery rhymes in Spanglish and answered questions about the world outside Argentina. The childrens school was 20 miles away and other than children of the farm workers it was a long way from anywhere.

The wind had risen during the evening but we settled down for the night and mostly slept peacefully. Vince who had begun to feel unwell on Tuesday was still feeling the effects of his cold and possible sinus infection. We were on our way by 8.30 back along the tracks to the main road. Laprida the first town was clean and tidy in contrast to most of the towns through which we had passed on the larger roads, however there was no breakfast to be had and we had to make do with the almost universal cheese and ham rolls from a garage.

Turning south on route 51 we pressed on through the increasing heat to Coronel Pringles. All this time since BA the countryside was largely flat and exactly as one might imagine the pampas. Distant clumps of trees, a dry watercourse, countless cattle grazing and to our delight the occasional gaucho on horseback (spoilt somewhat by the inevitable mobile phone clamped to an ear) The sky is truly huge and an azure blue of immense brightness. Pylon lines and railways stretch to the horizon becoming part of the haze at ground level. At this time of the year most of the wheat has been cut and the stubble fields are golden. Maize, soya and other beans are still a patch of green in an otherwise uniform brown colour, the most noticeable exception being the fields of yellow/green sunflowers, indicating north by their orientation.

Now as we got out towards Ventana we saw low sierras in front and to our right, passing over these 2 to 3 hundred foot hills gave better perspective to the landscape and from our elevated position we could see curtains of rain sweeping in from the Atlantic to our left. We caught a few showers but the greater effect was the very gusty winds which took a lot of concentration to deal with in the Austins. Passing lorries provided a brief lea into which we were sucked and again blown towards the verge as they passed. The edge of the tarmac is usually a 2” to 3” drop into vegetation and it would be difficult to control a drop off the road.

River joined Vince in “Rusty” for the last leg into the city of Bahia Blanca, a not auspicious approach to Argentina’s second city but things improved as we got to the centre and parked outside our hotel. This delightful hotel is like a set from an Agatha Christy drama. We felt the 174 mile trip, in particular Vince who was very tired and showing symptoms of his infection. Diana quickly obtained medication from a pharmacy and Vince went to bed to rest and recuperate.

The secure parking and comfortable surroundings soon worked their magic and after an early supper we retired earlier than usual.

After a leisurely breakfast we divided into visiting Wallmart or the Museo del Puerto in Puerto Ingeniero White, once one of the busiest grain ports in Argentina. This local history museum provided a fascinating insight into life in Argentina from the late 1890’s to the 1960.

Vince was by now feeling better but we had begun to dose him with antibiotics and he rested during the afternoon. Tomorrow we shall set out for Veidma a distance of 272 kms.