Austins To Argentina

Entry #10:

Hostel Fitzroy, Punta Arenas, Chile.

1st February 2009

Ushuaia 29/1/09

On our last evening The Honorary President of the Automvil Club Argentino (ACA) Hernan LOPEZ FONTANA accompanied us to dinner at a very pleasant restaurant overlooking the Beagle Channel. We learned a lot from our conversation with Hernan about the country through which we had travelled and various features of it we had not understood. The dying trees for instance, are as a result of a fungal infection and rising water table. We also heard about the driving habits and great love of motor racing of all Argentineans. He also encouraged us to travel the very last Kms to the end of Route 3, something we had avoided due to the cost and uncertainty about the ripio.

Stan, Vince, Hernan Lopez Fontana, Johny, River and Diana and not a doughnut in sight

Johny and I made one last visit to the Solomon House for a Cape Horn night cap and final look around the shelves filled with artefacts and items of interest.

Solomon House coffee shop

The following morning, rather to our surprise we all arose at 06.30 and sped off to find the end or beginning of Route 3 in the National Park. It was a brisk but bright morning and the effort was rewarded by some spectacular views of the scenery in the park, streams, ponds and read fringed meres, alive with birds and ducks.

The end of the road, as far south as one can travel in Argentina without 4-wheel drive. Buenos Aires 3,079 Kms, Alaska 17,848 Kms

The chummy negotiates a bridge in the National Park, one of the many lakes surrounded by pines.

We retraced our tire tracks and refuelled before collecting our bags from the Beagle Channel Hotel where we had been very comfortable for our stay in Ushuaia. We left about 11.00 and made quick progress to the foot of the pass, which was climbed more easily from the South owing to easier gradients, and it was unlike the previous ascent not raining.

Spectacular scenery and a mountain backdrop, these peaks being comparatively young retain their jagged profile

On the road to Garibaldi Pass we again saw the snow and ice that persists on these peaks even in summer.

Lago Fagnano from the Garibaldi Pass and the old road that was the only route until perhaps 40 years ago

The Mirador at the head of Garibaldi Pass

Pausing at the viewpoint just beyond the summit of the pass we looked north into the heart of the island of Tierra Del Fuego across Lago Fagnano, where our route to the border with Chile at San Sebastian was our destination for the night.

Stopping at Tolhuin for coffee and a bun, we pressed on, passing Rio Grande where we had stopped on the way South. At about 16.00 we noticed a strange, intermittent flapping noise from under the back of Rusty. Stopping to investigate nothing could be found but it soon came back when we resumed and a further investigation indicated a back axle problem. We found a gateway to pull into, where we were slightly out of the wind, which was by now, blowing strongly from slightly in front and the left of our track. We checked the axle for signs of debris in the oil, which was clear, but found the offside hub was hot and suspected a brake shoe return spring. A further trial of a few hundred metres confirmed that whatever the source of the noise it needed to be dealt with sooner rather than later and another track off the main road provided a little respite from the wind.

Having removed the hub, both a broken spring and a poorly wheel bearing were evident and so the hub was removed with some effort and replacement parts fitted. The wind which was strong soon chilled the mechanics, despite the sunshine and we were pleased to be back in the car after a little over an hour of considerable exertion by Vince.

Several vehicles had stopped to enquire if we needed help, including one from the T.D.F. tourist Dept. who although not speaking any English made sure we were alright. Later as we sped towards the border crossing we were waved down by the same driver who had found the other two cars at the border and reported our breakdown as two punctures, but OK. He carried a note telling us that coffee awaited our arrival.

Vince completes a wheel bearing change on the Road to San Sebastian

Relieved to have reached the border we had coffee while River and Diana dealt with the paperwork for the crossing out of Argentina. We drove the 10 miles through the border crossing area and uneventfully entered Chile. Our motel was a few metres from the crossing and as the light faded from the sky we gratefully found our rooms and quickly took advantage of the restaurant where the owner and his extended family had waited on our arrival. Greatly to the confusion of our anticipation, the food and accommodation that had not seemed promising when we passed through nearly a week before were very good and we fell upon an excellent dinner. To tired to do much else and with the generator about to be switched off we went to bed and I think no one stirred during the night.

Days Run: 213 miles

San Sebastian, Chile 31/1/09

All too soon our alarms rang and we roused ourselves at 05.00 to be on the road for the long and largely unknown ripio towards Porvenir and a date with the 13.00 ferry for Punta Arenas. The anticipated mileage was about 90 and it was in isolated country. We began in darkness and watched the sun rise as we made at first slow progress, however the road improved and after stops to change driver every hour, we began to real off the distance to the ferry.

We were kept interested all the while by guanacos, long billed birds beside the road and later, horses and sheep by the thousands. A few healthy looking cattle gazed at us as we passed and other than a few vehicles nothing stirred in the landscape. Much of the way we were beside the sea and towards our destination we began to climb and descend cliffs that rose and fell as we passed headlands. Across the sea we could see Isla Dawson and peninsula Brunswick upon which lay our final destination for the day.

On the road from San Sebastian to Porvenir

We reached Porvenir at 10.30, we had estimated 15mph, but achieved 18mph over the ripio, with only very quick stops for driver changes.

Arriving at the ferry terminal we hoped for breakfast and coffee, but the truly awful selection tempted few. The ferry boarding was brisk and efficient and we settled in our comfortable seats for the 2 hour crossing, sadly breakfast was still elusive and some settled for the unappetizing cheese and ham sandwich, a staple of all eating establishments we have encountered.

The modern ferry from Porvenir to Punta Arenas

Disembarking was quickly done and we drove the short distance into town and found our Hostel. A rapid sortie into the city and we all plunged into a coffee shop for refreshment.

A few intrepid souls made dinner that night, but all was quiet earlier than usual.

Punta Arenas, Peninsula Brunswick, Chile. 1/2/09

A day to find Chilean Pesos and explore the town, which is delightful. A town, formerly wealthy from its wool exports, it has a legacy of solid stylish buildings.

Buildings around the main square

The former bandstand, now tourist information point

A visit to the home of a wool baron, now a museum of life from the early 1900’s was enjoyed and some of the interiors were as stunning as homes of a similar era in Europe. Art Deco interiors and very sophisticated domestic fittings told the story of wealth and opulence.

The writing and billiard rooms, still in all their glory, with stunning inlaid wooden floors

During the day the centre was explored, gifts bought and ice cream consumed.

On a street in Punta Arenas and the ice cream shop did a roaring trade

Later local mechanics were seen fettling cars, it must be something in the water! It seems that the uniform is a traditional one for those in the business of A7 maintenance in Chile.

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